Cicada Brood X - The What, Why, When and How of Protecting Your Garden

There’s a lot of… buzz… about the emergence of periodical cicada Brood X in 2021. Here’s what you need to know about the 17-year cicadas that will be swarming Maryland and several other Mid-Atlantic states.

Brood X is a population of cicadas comprised of species in the Magicicada genus. They are primarily black with red eyes and orange-veined wings, unlike the larger, green annual cicadas (Neotibicen linnei) that are present in small numbers every summer.

The last emergence of Brood X was in 2004. Periodical cicadas emerge every 17 years in vast numbers (we’re talking billions!) so that enough of them can evade predators and breed successfully. Many species of wildlife benefit from the unending supply of slow cicadas as an easy source of food.

In this article, we’re going to focus on what you can do to protect your trees and shrubs from the onslaught of breeding cicadas and how Edible Eden can help!

An adult Magicicada by Dan Mozgai/ cicadamania.com

An adult Magicicada by Dan Mozgai/ cicadamania.com


What to Protect:

Small woody perennials including young plantings of berries, brambles, and small trees are at risk of damage. Herbaceous plants, like your veggies or flower gardens, are not eaten by cicadas or targeted for egg laying.

  • Species frequently planted by Edible Eden that should be protected:

    • All non-native fruit trees (apple, pear, cherry, bush cherry, persimmon, pomegranate, etc)

    • Raspberry / Blackberry brambles - if not well established

    • Serviceberry (Juneberry / Amalanchier spp.)

    • Maple - when immature

    • Chestnut

    • Redbud

    • Pecan

    • Hybrid Hazelnut (Corylus avellana 'Jefferson' and other cultivars)

    • Chokeberry

    • Blueberry

    • Currant/Gooseberry

  • Species frequently planted by Edible Eden that should not need protection:

    • Pawpaw

    • Sumac

    • Fig

    • Viburnum spp.

    • Most Conifer spp.

 
 
A young Hybrid Hazelnut (Corylus avellana ‘Jefferson’) that will need protection.

A young Hybrid Hazelnut (Corylus avellana ‘Jefferson’) that will need protection.


Why to Protect:

  • Female cicadas damage woody trees and shrubs by using their ovipositor (a long tube that looks like a stinger but is used for egg laying) to carve a longitudinal slit in the bark in which to lay their eggs. Cicadas do not cause any meaningful damage by feeding. It is the egg laying only that puts some plants at risk.

  • Cicadas prefer to lay their eggs branches that are roughly the diameter of a pencil up to about ½ an inch. Mature trees may take some damage on branch tips and can easily recover, but damage can occur on the main trunk and primary branches of young trees and shrubs, either setting them back significantly in their development or damaging them past the point of recovery.

  • Trees that are 4 years old or younger and young shrubs are at the highest risk, as most of their branches may be within the preferred size. Young fruit trees, even if they are able to withstand the damage, may lose limbs important to their structure at a time when shaping and pruning are critical to their future productivity.


When to Protect:

  • Cicadas typically emerge from early to mid-May to June, when soil temps reach about 64F at an 8 inch depth. 

  • Cicadas begin to breed about 1 week after emergence.

  • Plants should be protected either prior to emergence or the breeding period and remain protected for about 8 weeks until the cicadas are no longer present.


How to Protect:

  • Avoid spring pruning on trees that will not be protected. It is better to delay pruning until after the cicadas have died off and damaged wood can be pruned out. Branches would have to be cut back further than desired if they had been pruned prior to the damage.

  • The best way to protect your trees and shrubs is to wrap them in a fine mesh fabric that is breathable and allows the trees to receive rainfall without trapping moisture.

    • Floating row cover or insect barrier netting work great - you don’t want any type of netting with gaps large enough to let the cicadas in or tangle around a bird’s leg.

    • You can start by draping the fabric over the tree or shrub. If the tree is larger than the width of the fabric, you will have to make overlapping layers.

    • Finish by tightly wrapping a few layers around the main truck to prevent the cicadas from climbing up under the netting. You can secure the base with some twine or a zip tie; make sure it is snug but not so tight that it will damage the bark

    • Cicadas can weasel in through any gaps 1/2 inch or larger, so you will have to tape the edges or staple it every 1/4 inch.

  • Insecticides, both conventional and organic, do not prevent damage. Organic insecticides are usually targeted toward insect feeding behavior and have no preventative effect on the cicadas’ egg-laying. Conventional pesticides can cause significant poisoning to wildlife or pets that eat the contaminated cicadas, would need to be sprayed at an unsustainable frequency to have a meaningful effect, and do not prevent new cicadas from moving in to damage the trees even as others die. They can also trigger further damage to the trees by creating conditions that allow harmful mite infestations later in the growing season.


Edible Eden Is Here to Help:

  • Edible Eden will be offering the following services to protect your trees and shrubs:

    • Full service protection: Edible Eden will cover trees/shrubs in late April and remove covers in late June.

    • Retail sales: Edible Eden will provide local sales of tree covers (pre-shaped for trees and easier to use) and pre-cut sections of row cover/insect netting for customer use. Supplies are limited, email us today to purchase! (Local pickup only.)

5 Ways to Attract and Support Bees

In our last article on bees, we learned a little about the benefits of bees as pollinators and why they need our support to survive and thrive.

In this article, we’ll teach you how to provide that support! We’ll also tell you how to live among bees safely, and put to rest any concerns about these passive insects.

Native bumblebee and skipper butterfly on thistle.

Native bumblebee and skipper butterfly on thistle.

  1. Eliminate or reduce use of pesticides: 

The widespread use of pesticides is having detrimental effects on the health of most, if not all, living creatures. There are studies detailing the effects of these toxic chemicals on humans, fish, amphibians and birds. It’s clear that eliminating or reducing pesticide use can have benefits far beyond the benefits to native bee populations.

As part of our gardening practices, we avoid pesticide use as much as possible and use carefully selected organic products when necessary. However, not all organic pesticides are safe. Do your research before applying any pesticides, use them sparingly, and apply them in ways that are less likely to harm visiting pollinators. Better yet, monitor your plants to see if the pests are truly a problem or if they are part of a healthy ecosystem, attracting beneficial insects to keep their populations in check.

A tiny bee-mimicking fly drinking nectar from Bronze Fennel. Many species of flies are also beneficial pollinators, and some have even evolved to look like bees.

A tiny bee-mimicking fly drinking nectar from Bronze Fennel. Many species of flies are also beneficial pollinators, and some have even evolved to look like bees.

 

2. Provide sources of nectar and pollen:

Bees are struggling to keep up with the constant loss of habitat due to land development for commercial, agricultural, or residential purposes. One way that we can help to ease that burden is by reintroducing habitat to ecologically dead space, such as our lawns or patios!

There are many pollinator friendly plants available in the horticultural trade, but you’ll always get the most bang for your buck, or the most ecological benefit for your available space, by choosing native plants. Well-functioning ecosystems have plants and animals (including insects) that have evolved together and developed complex relationships.

While any bee may be able to get plentiful nectar from non-native zinnias, many native bees are specialists who use specific native plants to meet their mates or collect the pollen that they feed to their young. Many of these plant/pollinator mutualistic relationships are yet to be discovered, but it’s a sure thing that planting native is the way to discover them.

3. Maintain a watering station:

You might not think that bees get thirsty while buzzing around all day drinking nectar, but that’s like thinking that we wouldn’t get thirsty just because we eat juicy fruits! Water is just as important to bees as to any other creature.

While honeybees like to drink from a shallow pool of mucky water (the dirtier the better, apparently!), most native bees collect their water from the leaves of plants or other surfaces. Mason bees need a source of wet, muddy ground in the spring while they are building their nests.

Whether you decide on providing a shallow dish of water (filled with marbles or pebbles to prevent the bees from drowning) or simply watering some of your perennial plants from overhead in the morning, the bees will thank you.

4. Make space for physical habitat:

A good habitat is more than a source of food and water, or else some of us would probably live in our favorite restaurants. Just like us, bees need space to sleep and raise their kids.

Most native bees don’t live in large colonies like the social honeybees that we are most familiar with. In fact, most native bees are solitary species that don’t live in colonies at all!  Providing a range of nesting habitats for native bees is not only easy, it can also give you an excuse to not have to work as hard in your garden.

The Mason bees mentioned in the previous section collect mud to create partitioned cells inside of hollow reeds. Leafcutter bees are similar, finding a hollow place to line with whimsical cocoons built from leaves and flower petals. Other bees may nest in ground burrows or bore holes into soft wood, like that of a dead tree.

To sum it up, providing habitat for native bees means one thing: leave a natural area in your yard and don’t work so hard at cleaning up your lawn debris!

 

A metallic green sweat bee, most likely Augochlorella aurata, on Stokesia laevis, or Stokes’ Aster.

5. Living safely with bees:

Native bees are generally peaceful creatures. Unlike honeybees who can sting only once as a sacrificial act, native bees lack hooks on their stingers and can sting multiple times. Despite that fact, native bees are even less likely to resort to stinging! The stakes are lower for most solitary bees, who are not tasked with protecting an entire colony, and it is very unlikely that you would be stung by a native bee unless you were causing it harm.

The key is to stay observant (to avoid any accidental bee squishing) and keep calm; don’t assume that bees are out to get you. Honing your identification skills can also help. One family of bees, the sweat bees, are named because they like to land on you and collect the salt from your sweat! Knowing that they are peaceful sweat collectors may help you to enjoy the experience rather than swatting and possibly causing them to sting. 

The previous tips are helpful to anyone who is interested in bees, but what about visitors who are fearful, or even allergic? “Prevention is the best medicine” applies here. When planning your garden, avoid putting pollinator plants near key areas such as your front gate, front door, mailbox, or children’s play areas. Native bees will generally stick to their chosen plants and nest in undisturbed areas. Planting in a less-trafficked area can provide peace of mind to bees and visitors alike. Consider placing a “Pollinator Garden” sign or telling visitors about your plants and where they are most likely to encounter bees in your yard. Overall, bees are happy to keep to themselves, but a little planning and education can go a long way in keeping everyone safe.

The Benefits of Bees

Edible Eden takes pride in being an ethical business, but did you know that we couldn’t provide our services without taking advantage of free labor?

Don’t worry, we’re not breaking any employment laws, and our unpaid workers are all volunteers. Today we are kicking off a series of articles written to give credit to this seemingly altruistic workforce... by introducing you to your friendly, neighborhood bees!

© Photo by Grace Fellner

© Photo by Grace Fellner

It is true that all of Edible Eden’s gardens (and gardens everywhere!) would be desolate and barren without the work of these fastidious pollinators. While they are not the only pollinators in town, bees are comprised of a vast family of species who are essential to natural ecosystems as well as cultivated crops. Every time you pick a blueberry or a tomato, thank a bee!

An image of bees, beekeepers, and honey from the tomb of Pabasa in Luxor, Egypt.

An image of bees, beekeepers, and honey from the tomb of Pabasa in Luxor, Egypt.

Human civilizations have been aware of the importance of bees since long before science parsed out why and how. Humans have been harvesting wild honey for thousands of years, but the earliest known records of intentional beekeeping date back to Ancient Egyptian society where bees were worshipped and believed to fall to the Earth as tears of the sun god, Ra. The depicted beekeeping methods are so advanced that it’s thought that they were developed long before the details were recorded in hieroglyphs.

While they may no longer be worshipped as deities, bees are as important as ever to modern society. In addition to producing 163 million pounds of honey in the USA annually, honeybees are vital to the agricultural industry as crop pollinators. According to the FDA, bee pollination accounts for about $15 billion in added crop value.

Honeybees aren’t the only superstars in town; in fact, they’re not even from around here!  The United States has been a home to over 4,000 native bee species long before honeybees were introduced by European settlers in the 1600’s. This is a surprisingly little known fact, as many “Save the Bees” campaigns focus on honeybees, who are declining due to intensive farming practices that leave them weak to parasites and disease.

Habitat loss and pesticides are also contributing to the decline of both honeybees and our native bees. Competing with honeybees for limited resources has been an immense strain on native bee populations. Losing our native bees would be devastating to our local ecosystems and complex food webs, and they need our support to survive!

Fortunately, we are here to teach you how to give back to these essential frontline workers. Stay tuned for upcoming articles on how to attract and support bees and live among them safely, the benefits and types of native bees, and how planting specific native plants can help bees to successfully breed and raise their next generations.

Native bees visiting a sunflower for nectar, pollen, and naptime.

© Photo by Grace Fellner