Here’s a counter-intuitive garden tip: plant your trees in the Winter!
Transplanting can be a stressful experience for plants; new soil, new temperatures, new nutrients and moisture levels need to be acclimated to before the plant can kick back into gear and grow as usual. If moved suddenly without being hardened off, watered in, or timed well, plants may experience transplant shock and exhibit drooping, limp leaves and stems.
While planting your trees in the Winter isn’t essential, it can help in preventing transplant shock. Planting while trees are dormant causes the least disruption and gives them plenty of time to acclimate to their new environment and develop a strong root system well before the stress and heavy production of Summer hits.
So once you have a tree, how do you plant it?
First, make sure to find the right tree for the right place - if you have a space you want to fill, take note of the sun, soil moisture, and the size of the space and find a tree that will thrive in those conditions. Keep in mind that natives, in addition to supporting native wildlife, are better adapted to our local environment and will likely be more low-maintenance and healthier. If you are planting a fruit tree, make sure to get a disease resistant variety that is well adapted to our climate.
Once you have a tree and a spot to plant it, dig a hole at least twice as wide as the tree’s root ball and about as deep. The sides should be sloped rather than straight up and down and the surface should be roughed up, not smooth. This helps roots and water penetrate through.
Free up the roots! If you have a “bare-root” tree, the roots should already be free and untangled. But if your tree came “balled and burlapped” or potted, take it out of the burlap or pot and untangle the roots. It’s okay to tear a few smaller roots - in fact, this will encourage further root growth. Free up the largest roots, using a hand rake or a knife if it’s really tough.
Test the tree placement and size of the hole by placing the tree inside. Major roots should have room to stretch out. The soil level should reach an inch or two from the top of the root-ball, keeping the “root-flair” exposed. Planting the tree too deep will cause soil to push up against the tree trunk - this can cause rot and encourages disease. Adjust the hole as needed. Test the orientation of the tree as well. If the tree is next to a path or a house, make sure major branches are growing in the opposite direction so they don’t interfere!
Once your tree is placed, back fill the hole, adding compost if needed. After every few inches of soil is added, tamp down the soil with the shovel and your feet.
Mulch in a circle about 2-3” deep and about 2 feet from the trunk in every direction. (At least as wide as the tree’s crown.) Pull soil and mulch a few inches away from the trunk, creating a “donut” shape to keep from burying the root flare..
Water! At the time of planting add 15-20 gallons of water. Water regularly during the first Spring and Summer.
Looking for more information about trees?
Send us your questions at info@edibleedenfoodscapes.com
Read this great planting guide from Tree Baltimore with more step-by-step information on how to plant a tree.
Get some ideas from this native tree guide from the Department of Natural Resources